New York Fashion Week always begins like a question: What does the city want right now?
And in these early days of FW26, the answers felt less like statements and more like atmospheres — sometimes whispering, sometimes blaring, but always vibrating somewhere between intention and instinct.

This season didn’t just show clothes — it performed moods. Some designers looked back to move forward; others looked inward to break out. A few even shook the entire calendar and said, “This is how memory wants to feel in 2026.”

Here’s how it landed — unrushed, slightly overheard, and fully present.

Marc Jacobs — Temporal Softness

Marc’s show was less about garments and more about memory as architecture — vintage frames, ghost-soft tailoring, and those little pulses of emotion you can’t explain but immediately understand. This felt like a love letter you read twice. Fashion finds it whimsy again. thank you, marc.

Hommeheart observation: Clothes that ask not where you’re going, but where you’ve been — and make you want to stay there a little while.

Coach — Americana with a Soundtrack

Varsity lines and sportswear cues met unmissable attitude, pulling U.S. style into a narrow sweet spot where nostalgia feels present. This was yesterday’s varsity jersey remixed for tomorrow’s afterparty.

Hommeheart note: When uniform becomes anthem.

Proenza Schouler — Urban Essentialism

Clean precision and lived-in calm, as if New York itself got a wardrobe upgrade. Proenza’s silhouettes were sharp without needing to shout — confident, not aggressive.

Hommeheart thought: The city isn’t loud — it’s exact.

7 For All Mankind — Jeans With History (and a future)

This wasn’t just denim. It was nostalgia you could wear — but re-engineered under fresh leadership. With a new creative vision at the helm, 7 For All Mankind isn’t replaying the 2007 greatest hits — it’s remixing them. Low rises, early-aughts sensuality, and denim that doesn’t beg for validation — it just fits.

We’re watching closely. And yes, we’re seated. Because when an iconic house recalibrates its identity, you don’t scroll past — you lean in.

We’re here for whatever there new creative director—Italian designer Nicola Brognano, of Blumarine and Giambattista Valli, has in store next.

Hommeheart slash: Revival done with taste, not déjà vu.

Area — the cocktail dress is back (and she’s still short)

Sequins that don’t whisper — they confess. Area’s energy is less about dressing up and more about being witnessed. If clothes could flirt, this entire collection would be doing exactly that, unapologetically.