Private Policy SS26: Denim Drama & Couture Softness
Runway stills: Umberto Fratini/Gorunway.com
Haoran Li’s vision came into sharp focus—lightweight bombers, padded shoulders, evening cocktail seduction, powder-blue skies on eyelids, and a silhouette shaped by sleek side-parts.
Friday night, Haoran Li stepped forward alone for Private Policy’s Spring/Summer 2026, and the collection was a masterclass in balancing street grit with red-carpet flutter. If past seasons whispered, this one spoke—and spoke loud, but with elegance.
Denim was everywhere but never heavy. Think washed indigos, metallic sheens, and panels that caught light just so. Bombers came in whisper-light fabrics (silky twills, linen blends) but with shoulder pads cut for drama—angular, almost architectural, giving the wearer a quiet command. Cropped jackets, military greens, polka-dot inserts: Li reminded us why Private Policy courts the edge of workwear without losing refinement.
The dresses that made us stop mid-scroll: soft cocktail silhouettes done in silks, chiffons, and whispering satins. Layered under nylon tights or lace knee-high socks, accessories included satin bows at the neck, slight gathers, and asymmetry in the hems. One look in particular: a slip dress in dove grey silk, paired with sheer tights and a delicate bow-tie scarf around the throat. It felt vintage, but every bit modern.
Backstage was its own runway: makeup by MAC, directed by artist Terry Barber, featured doll-like skin and powder-blue eyeshadow that complemented the cool tones in Li’s palette. Faces were luminous, almost porcelain, eyes edged with a touch of translucent blue like a mist. Hair by Narad Kutowaroo, using Unite Haircare, sculpted into sleek, deep side parts; each model’s face framed sharply, letting cheekbones and jawlines sing. The hairstyle wasn’t just finishing—it was defining.
What sets this season apart is Li’s insistence that Private Policy remains between two worlds: nightlife glamour and sidewalk intent. Is the robot gimmick in some shows elsewhere? Not here. Li shows that drama can come from proportion, from texture, from the ways light interacts with fabric. If other reviews noted the workwear theme, Li pushed it forward—made denim not just utilitarian but luxurious, made a bomber feel like evening armour. Evening dresses were as intentional as the bombers, meaning Private Policy can do both: shine under spotlights and hold their weight off the hanger.
HOMMEHEART - POV from the front row
